Back in the 1960’s, researchers discovered that wood could be plasticized by use of treatment with ammonia gas in a pressure chamber. The ammonia would dissolve the hydrogen bonds between the lignin and the cellulose fibers, allowing the fibers to slip past one another, and enabling extreme bends to be made. When the ammonia evaporated out of the wood, fresh hydrogen bonds would form, setting the bend permanently in place as if the wood had grown that way. In the 1970’s through the present, some experiments have been done regarding the process, but it has yet to meet with any commercial application, mostly due to the difficulty of safely obtaining, storing, handling, and using deadly, corrosive anhydrous ammonia gas.
Meanwhile, woodworkers agree that kiln dried wood is difficult to bend, and that air-dried is the way to go if attempting to make steam-bent wood products. However, many parts of the world are unable to reasonably source air-dried stock and are forced to make do with kiln-dried. Many have discovered that adding a little household grade aqueous ammonia solution (1-3% concentration ammonium hydroxide) to their steam generator helps with bending kiln-dried wood. Ammonia fuming is a common woodworking technique to darken high-tannin woods like oak, and while stronger concentrations work faster, low concentrations have been found to still produce equal results if exposure time is lengthened. This, combined with stumbling across this 2015 study by an Iraqi university, combined to indicate to us that aqueous ammonia could be used as an effective wood plasticizer, significantly reducing the risks involved with working with the ammonia.
We have begun to experiment with treating wood with a 29% ammonium hydroxide solution, and the results are quite promising. Historically snath manufacture has been a costly process, with the steam bending resulting in a very high breakage rate. With good quality ash wood in scarcer supply than ever before thanks to the emerald ash borer, methods for reliably producing the complex bends of a scythe snath are the needed if a traditional or semi-traditional wooden American snath is to remain in production. Now that we’ve developed a soak tank and functioning method for producing a bend that forces compression, we will need to manufacture more clamps to produce the full 3D curvature needed for a finished snath and refine our drying methods to reduce checking due to the rapid evaporation rate of the ammonia.
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Adjusting the Tang Angle of American Pattern Scythe Blades
American pattern scythe blades traditionally come from the factory with the tang flat, and they are adjusted to the proper angle for the user and their snath by heating and bending for optimal mowing performance. This image series shows our method of going about it, using a Seymour Midwest Tools 30″ grass blade. If you do not have the tools necessary to perform the bending yourself, a local blacksmith, machine shop, or auto mechanic will likely be able and willing to perform the job.
The angle you will need will depend on your height, stance when mowing, the tuning of your snath, how much bend or “lift” there is in the neck of your snath (typically about 25° in most American snaths) and your intended mowing environment. In general a good rule of thumb is that the edge should ride about the thickness of your fingertip above the ground when in mowing stance. A lawn blade may need a slightly lower lay, and if mowing in very heavy or thick vegetation or on bumpy terrain a slightly higher lay may be preferred. See where your blade rides with the tang unbent and determine how much you want to lower it. This will be the amount of bend you’ll be introducing to the tang.
Clamp the blade securely in a sturdy vise. Care should be taken so that when the tang is torqued the strain is carried by the rib rather than the thin web of the blade (the span between the rib and the edge.) Here aluminum vise pads are being used both to appropriately manage the sites of pressure, but also to avoid marring the blade.
Heating the shank of the tang to prepare it for bending requires caution to avoid also heating the edge at the heel of the blade. We use an induction heater, which rapidly heats a narrow band of steel within the confines of its electromagnetic coil, but this is an option few will have. A torch (either MAP gas or oxy acetylene) is much more common, but greater care must be taken with them to mitigate heat migration away from the site of application. A raw potato can be stuck on the edge to shield it from the torch flame as it’s applied to the shank of the tang, or the base of the blade wrapped with a soaking wet rag to act as a heat sink. Try to keep the heat as confined to to the shank as possible, as this is where you want the bending to occur. Bring the metal to at least moderate red heat before attempting to bend.
Now that the tang has been brought to sufficient heat, twisting force needs to be applied to the tang to impart the desired angle of lift–what is known as the “cray” or the “tack” of the tang. A bending fork is the ideal way to do this (it makes it much easier to control the bend) but you can slip a pipe of appropriate dimensions over the tang to do the job as well.
The bending fork or pipe should be close at hand during the heating process so you can get it in position without losing too much of your heat. Apply your pressure in a smooth and controlled manner so you can gauge if excessive stress is being placed on the blade itself. If resistance becomes too great, reapply heat as necessary. It is ideal, however, to get the tang angle set in a single heat.
After bending, allow the tang to air cool–DO NOT QUENCH. Cooling the blade with water or by other rapid means would harden the steel, rendering it brittle. You want the metal to cool slowly so that it will be soft and tough to better resist strain during mowing, and prone to bend rather than snap if abused. Water may be pooled on the heel of the cutting portion of the blade after bending to act as a heat sink to protect against heat migration through the steel, ensuring the temper is not drawn out of the edge, but be careful not to allow it to boil up onto the tang portion where it could cause accidental quenching and hardening.