How to make a “hobo leather” sheath!

Originally authored 8/17/2012

As many of you know, I’m a big fan of machetes and other choppers, and many of them come without sheaths. Custom leather or kydex can be had from many skilled craftspeople, but when you have as many inexpensive choppers as I do it just doesn’t make good financial sense to have them made for more than a select few of them! My solution to that common problem, was to turn to a material that most of us have in abundance–hobo leather! And by hobo leather I mean cardboard! 

Now, a simple fold-over sleeve is something that most of us have likely done before for machete transport or mailing a sheathless knife (like a Busse) out for custom work. However, I wanted something that was a quick fix, but MORE than a temporary one. I’ve been using this method for a few years now, but never bothered (or remembered! ) to take photos of the process! I just thinned the edge on my Friedrich Dick “Italien Messer” cleaver and no longer trusted the plastic sleeve that it came in, and I 

Step 1: Get a nice flat piece of cardboard with as few creases as possible. Make sure it’s wider than the blade by at least a few inches.



Step 2: Trace the outline of the blade on the cardboard and cut it out. You can use scissors, but they can cause bends or wrinkles in the cardboard so I used a hawkbill pruner.







Step 3: Lay the piece you just cut out on a free space of the cardboard and trace it. This is easier than tracing the blade itself again. Then draw a border around the tracing about 1″ wide. Wider is better than narrower–you can see that I started off a little narrow and had to correct myself. Then cut out this wider shape.





Step 4: Now it’s time to start folding the larger form around the blade. Since the spine on the cleaver is straight, I started there. Then I drew “wedges” along the edge side of the border and cut them out to form tabs that could fold around the edge. If you experience any bad overlap when folding the tabs over, just trim the excess off with some scissors.











Step 5: After adjusting the fit of the tabs, fold them all around the blade and place the smaller cardboard cutout on top of it. I like to hold down on it with my knee after I get all the tabs in nicely because it leaves my hands free for the next part!



Step 6: Now it’s time for tape! I like to use packing tape because it leaves a glossy waterproof surface and doesn’t gum up with age/heat like duct tape does. Stick a few strips on either side of the sheath to pin the two halves together.





Step 7: Now finish taping! I attach strips of tape to the “small” panel of the sheath and crush the edge of the cardboard with my thumb while stretching the tape taught over the edge before affixing it to the other side. That snugs things up nice and firm. Do this along all of the edges, then cover any bare patches on the center regions of the panels for a little extra water resistance. Now you’re done! You can freely remove the blade at this point and the sheath will hold its shape, and with just the right amount of gentle tension. 





I find these hold up very decently under repeated use and just a little care. They make a very good sheath for stuffing in your pack. Maybe one of these days I’ll figure out a good way to attach a durable belt loop or sling to it. They do the job just fine as is for now, though! 

Why convex edges are awesome–it’s not why you think!

If there’s one thing that everyone likes, it seems to be convex edges. Users often state how impressed they are with their performance. However, the oft-touted belief is that a convex edge has more material supporting the blade, and thus has better edge retention than a conventional “V” edge. This makes sense at a cursory glance because the shortest distance between two points is a straight line, and so a convex would mean there was more material and a concave would have less, right? 

Sort of. A convex edge traversing those two points (the apex of the bevel and where the bevel transitions into the primary grind or blade stock) would have more material supporting the edge…but would also have a broader effective edge angle meaning it would have to displace more material during the cut and at a more rapid pace. This is really the dynamic of the old broad vs. thin edge angle tradeoff, and you can’t add material back onto the blade anyway so the only way to increase the supporting material is by diminishing the blade height through sharpening so we push the red lines back into the thicker region of the blade. You can see that that would start removing a lot of blade pretty quick, and at the cost of cutting performance as well. What we really need to be looking at is a “V” edge being converted to a convex of equal effective edge angle. What you get is something like this:



So you can see that what you’re really getting is a reduction of the transitional shoulder, giving you a thinner geometry but maintaining the same edge angle and without significantly reducing the material supporting the edge where it typically needs it most. This makes for a smoother cut (increasing controllability due to the more gradual shift in geometry) but also reduces the amount of material that must be displaced by the blade as it passes through the cutting medium. This means that your cuts require less energy, yet the edge is still almost as well-supported as a conventional “V” edge.

Given the actual realistic benefit provided by a convex edge, this is why I tell folks to not worry too much about maintaining a perfect convex edge when out in the field. If you’re a perfectionist you can always restore it to “true” when you get back to the house. Besides–freehand sharpening results in slight variation in angle from stroke to stroke so you end up with a very slight convex form anyhow. 


Most tests in which folks have been impressed with the edge-holding abilities of convex edges have been batoning their knife through a bunch of wood and then still been able to shave their arm at the end. Impressive, right? Well once the edge goes in the edge rarely actually touches the wood! The parts of the bevel either side of the edge and the bevel of the primary grind take the brunt of the action since the wood splits ahead of the edge itself. The convex edge doesn’t significantly play a role in this effect other than perhaps allowing the split to start a little easier. Cross-grain batoning would be another matter, but little comparative testing has been done between two otherwise identical knives of equal edge angle with “V” and convex edges to provide substantive evidence for any sort of improvement in edge retention. If there is one it’s simply that for equal amounts of force applied to each blade the thinner convex one will be able to cut deeper, and thus cut more material for equal energy expenditure, but the actual sharpness of the edge (or the thickness of the apex on the terminal “edge” bevel) will be affected about the same since it has the same edge angle and degree of wear resistance.